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The Chanel Story - Part 3

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Coco Chanel, founder of the House of Chanel, began her fashion career in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating elegance, class, and originality. Under her tight reign from 1910-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’ until her death on January 10, 1971.

1910-1932

In 1910, Chanel opens a shop, under the name of ‘Chanel Modes’ at 21 rue Cambon in Paris, to create hats. Her hats were worn by famous French actresses which helped establish her reputation. Chanel introduced in 1913 women’s sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville, France. Her line of jersey clothes changed not only women’s relationships with their bodies, but also with their way of life, or the French savoir vivre. It became an immediate success.

Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France that prioritized freedom of movement, bypassing ostentatious and useless things in her designs. She affirmed the House’s style of authentic and naturally seductive with fluid and comfortable lines. She then opened her first couture house in Biarritz, France to introduce her other fashion lines.

1921 saw the introduction of the first Chanel perfume, No. 5. It was greeted internationally by high society ladies as their choice when going out during the night. “La Société des Parfums Chanel’’ was founded in 1924 to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products, after the critically acclaimed No. 5, a perfume that commands the highest sales in history.

1924 also greeted the first Chanel costume jewelry collection that Harper’s Bazzar greeted as “one of the most revolutionary designs of our time.”

In 1928, Chanel introduced the ‘little black dress,’ greeted by Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the modern woman.’ That same year, Chanel introduced the classic tweed. Inspired by visits to Scotland with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel was inspired and created her first tweed suits.

Chanel premiered a fabulous exhibition of fine jewelry in 1932 dedicated to the diamond, featuring designs which became the talk of the town for their simplicity and originality. Several of the pieces, including the ‘Comet’ and ‘Fountain’ necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993.

1935-1981

Chanel reached the peak of her fame in 1935 when she employed 4,000 workers and owned numerous buildings throughout France. In 1939, she retired from fashion design and closed her popular couture house, prompting protests from New York high society to the Parisian aristocracy. Only her perfumes and accessories were sold at Chanel’s boutiques.

Coming out of fashion retirement at the age of 71, Chanel re-opened the couture house. Her first show received international acclaim, with her signature jersey suit being introduced that bore her favorite number: No. 5. In 1955, Chanel introduced the quilted bag with the shoulder strap, an bag that shook the fashion world. It became so popular the first year, she had to decline numerous requests due to the lack of time to painstakingly manufacture each one by her skilled artisans. That same year, Chanel launched her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur.

In 1957 at the Fashion Awards in Dallas, Chanel and her Spring collection received the Fashion Oscar. The fashion world applauded her as the ‘most influential designer of the twentieth century.’

After dozens of other internationally acclaimed collections, Chanel introduced in 1970 a new perfume by the name of No. 19, after her birthday date. On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died, ending an era of revolutionary fashion that would still be the classic model fashion designers today find inspiration in. Her posthumous Spring collection enjoyed considerable success.

However, her influence did not pass with her death. Other posthumous projects came to light a few years. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was in the workings when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories. In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Anteaus.

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